They are as easy as it reads in the July Model Rail Magazine. Results may be better with all the chemical setters and stuff, but I had tweezers, a bowl of warm water, scissors and a knife. And looking at the enlarged photos, there are alignment issues that will get better with practice, I hope.
How does it look?
I thought you'd never ask :-)
Okay, testing my skills on the bridge track and so far it works well and is "easy" to use. Have laid down a loop that had a length of bridge track in it. I was able to then lay the two guard rails and fasten them with super glue, as per the included instructions. Things learned? The loop was tighter than NRMA standards but still the guard rails bent to shape easily and I was able to super glue them in short distances at a time. Because the loop was tighter than NRMA standards, I learnt another possible reason for the standards: material memory. Bend a piece of cardboard a little way and it springs back. Bend it a lot and it will retain the kink. So too with nickel silver rails: the too tight loop ended up with some kinks instead of the smooth curves possible with larger radii.
Now to other things happening in between weekends. Two wagon kits: a 12T van and a BR brake van. The brake van got painted prior to assembly and then some more as assembly progressed. I have yet to affix the decals because this would be my first time doing decals. One of the issues I have with decals is the age of the kits I have dealt with in the past and whether decals have a use by date. The other reason is the prospect of doing a new thing wrong. Writing this, the worst that can happen is the decals don't turn out and the model looks as it does now without the decals. And a recent purchase of the not so easy to find Hornby steam roller. Work has commenced on assembling a SuperQuick station island platform and platform buildings.
P.S. Loving the AUTO setting up close on the Canon SX120IS!
